sump return ideas/suggestions

[TCrox]

I'm still getting ready for salt, and running the sump on my FW that will eventually be SW (roughly 48 gallon tank, 10 gallon DIY sump). The return pump is rated at 660 gal/hr at 0 feet, so pushing it up 2 feet and making two hard 90 degree turns tones it down enough for the 600 gal/hr overflow box to keep up.

The problem is the force of which the return pump gets that water into the tank almost moves gravel! Sand wouldn't stand a chance! I could spread it out with a split and that would help a little, but I just wanted to know how you all dealt with that... I'm sure there's a better way.

Any ideas for that return pvc that won't slam fish into the glass and won't throw sand around when I add it?
http://www.croxautoware.com/images/aquarium/sump6.jpg

[Aquatic Realms]

Run the return line to the bottom of your tank and "T" it into a spray bar. Then drill 1/8" holes about 2" apart. Depending on the total pressure...if it is still too high, add a second bar using a + attatchment a few inches above the bottom bar.

This will allow the water to come out at the bottom of your tank and keep your water column moving to help prevent the detritus from building up.

[gman0526]

Make a baffle and leave the pump chamber bare bottomed.

[FishinInTheDark]

Hook it up to a Sea Swirl wavemaker?

[Sugar Magnolia]

Install a PVC gate valve inline after your pump so you can throttle it back a bit. I also like Scott's idea. :D

[marshalrckman]

instead of using regular sand use some crushed coral

[Aquatic Realms]

instead of using regular sand use some crushed coral

CC is not the way to go for a substrate. You are better off with sand. All you need to do is "adjust" your water flow/pressure. By doing the spray bar you don't back-pressure your pump by adding a valve and partially closing it off.

This way you increase the total appiture size and thus reducing the flow rate (pressure). You will still get the same gph, but it wont come out at such a high flow rate from one or two openings. You would spread all that pressure out over a broad area.

In essence...turning a normal 3/4" diamiter opening into a 1 to 1/2" opening. :wink:

Almost forgot...

The following is VERY important if you do the spray bar!!!

You MUST drill a hole (a 1/8" bit is fine for this one and the rest) just below your water's normal operating level in the tank. This will act as your anti-siphon if the power fails. It will never fail like a check valve can (they clog EASY and also reduce flow and build back pressure to the pump). All you have to do is check it out once in a while to make sure no coraline is growing over it...if it starts...a simple swipe with a razor blade will solve the issue.

I never use check valves for the reason above....I had one fail in the past. Luckly I was there to stop the problem from becoming a disaster!

[FishinInTheDark]

Good advice, Scott.

[TCrox]

Thanks Scott!

I've had my reservations about anything that returns deeper than my sump has room... never thought about drilling a hole deeper than water level.

CC isn't for me (or anyone from what I've read!), I like the look and bennies of live sand. I also like the idea of having the water returned at the bottom of the tank. I have no idea yet what a spray bar is but going to look into it now.

[Aquatic Realms]

This is my old (dirty) spray bar from my one "out of comission" 140 Gal.

http://www.aquaticrealmsllc.com/images/old-spraybar.gif

(I have to replace the center brace that broke when I had 2, 250w HQI's sitting directly on it and water splashed on the glass CB causing it to explode. And yes, I said explode. :roll: 2 huge chunks blew out and a few other smaller pieces. Luckly the lamps didn't fall in the water.)

[bigfoot]

you could get a 3/4 masonry drill bit and drill holes through some LR to hide the returns at the bottom of your tank and hide pvc with rock work