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View Full Version : Tank needs some serious help (long post)


Blazer88
06-18-2005, 09:50 PM
First a quick background of the 30G tank. I have had it for about a month now and bought it from a guy who has had it up and running for over a year. Only two fish: Clarkii Clown and a small (2-3") Grouper. I have do have some Hermit crabs and snails, whatever hasn't died off yet. Small patch of GSP coral, 2 Kenya trees, 2 patches of pulsing Xenia which have died, and a frilly mushroom has also died. I have been having a large problem with high nitrates and phosphates as well. The water temp is 77, PH 8.2, Alk 115, Calcium 425, Ammonia 0, Salinity 1.025. I am using RO/DI water that tests zero for Phosphates and Nitrates. I have a sump with a skimmer. I am using a 96W 10K PC and 96W Actinic. The 10K is on for 8 hours a day, and the actinic for 12. Feeding is as light as possible; only a pinch of flake food for the Clarkii once a day, and the grouper only gets fed maybe twice a week. I have probably 30 lbs. of live rock and a 3"+ sand bed. So here is my problem; the tank is extremely ugly with brown/reddish stringy crapy growing all over the tank, as well as my frilly mushroom and Xenia dying off. The Alge is very light and can easily be blown or sucked off with a baster, but will continue to return the next day. I'm thinking there is a problem with the deep sand bed. I am thinking about removing the sand bed so there is only 1" left. How can I tell if my skimmer is working or not? This alge crap is really ruining my tank and looks horrible. Oh yeah, I bought some Phosguard and put that in the tank to try and reduce the phosphates a week ago that doesn't seem to make a difference with the Alge. Does anyone have any ideas about what can be going wrong with my tank? Why are my phosphates/nitrates high? What can I do? My LFS recommended that I remove most of the sand and take the LR off as it is currently sitting on top of the sand. Could this help?

Blazer88
06-18-2005, 10:07 PM
I should also add that I think I have a pretty large problem with Cyano growing on the sand/rocks and air bubbles frequently come from the sand. Also my large feather duster blew his top last week as well, though the fish seem to be doing just fine. Could the bio balls and LR rubble in my sump be a problem with the nitrates?

FishinInTheDark
06-18-2005, 11:02 PM
Cyano is often the result of disturbing a tank. The phosphate removing media should help. You should also increase the flow within the tank. Have you considered adding a refugium with macroalgae?

You should do some water changes. I would say 10% every third day or so. Eventually, that will help lower nutrients also. Physically removing the cyano is also a good idea, as that serves to remove the nutrients too.

BTW, what are your specific phosphate and nitrate readings? If you listed it, I can't find it!

Blazer88
06-19-2005, 01:04 AM
I have thought about a refugium but haven't researched it enough to seriously consider it. Are there any good links I can check out? I tested my phosphates today and it dropped from around 5+ to around 2.0, which is a large improvement. I took a sample of my water to my LFS and they got some different ratings than what I got, as my test kit was showing 0's for both nitrate and phosphates. I was given a test kit when I purchased the tank, but I think it may be old. So I bought a new phosphate kit as I was most concerned about that. I tested when I got home and read off the charts, placed Phosguard in immediately, and tested today around 2.0. But there must be a reason my phosphates reached that level to begin with. My nitrate kit shows zero, but the kit may be old and unrealible. I currenlty have a new test kit on order, but my LFS said my nitrate level was slightly elevated, but the phosphates were much more to worry about. Does placing the live rock on top of the sand ruin flow and cause promblems with cyano and phosphates? I do have a powerhead placed in the corner of the tank, would adding another one in that same corner but placed lower help? Are the bio ballks and LR rubble in my sump any kind of problem? Should I remove some sand to make the depth around 1" and have the LR on the bottom and not on top of the sand? Thanks for your time to answer my questions.

hydrahawk
06-20-2005, 12:11 PM
I would stick with the deep sand bed (DSB), unless you don't like the look of it. I forgot what it does but I can tell you more when I get home. As for the LR sitting on top of the sand, it is fine.

Gettting a new test kit will really help. You can now get accurate readings. The first thing is your cyno problem. Just like Conni said, having extra flow in your tank will help with the problem. Do many water changes until you get your level down. I would even cut back your lighting. I will add more later when I get home tonight. That should be a nice start.

hydrahawk
06-21-2005, 11:36 AM
http://www.coralforum.com/kb.php?mode=article&k=38

Take a look at the link above. It talked about benefits of having a DSB.

Also, I would add that having a DSB will help with the denitrification process and nutrient control.

FishinInTheDark
06-21-2005, 11:49 AM
Keep in mind that a 3" sandbed is not a DSB. You need 4-5" for the proper anoxic strata to form.

I agree that your rock on top of the sand is fine.

WaterFarmer
06-21-2005, 04:32 PM
Here's my take on some issues here - I hope this helps.

1) The brownish red stringy stuff is cyano. It's tough to get rid of but is amlost always a nutrient problem.

2) The 3" sand bed is not a DSB and putting the rock on top of the sand is fine. Moving the tank likely caused a big disprution of the sand bed and is causing problems with water chemistry. Sorry to not be more specific about what might be released by stirring the sand bed but im sure there are some nasty decomposition products in the sand bed.

3) The xenia and mushrooms dying off - you need to remove dead and decaying material. They are giving off ammonia which is then converted to nitrite and then to nitrate which could be causing the leveated nitrate readings. Remove the dying material immediately. Siphon out the cyano if you can - as much as possible.

4) You'll know the skimmer is working if the collection cup is filling up with dark brown sewage looking swill. Discard immediately and resit the temptaion to make mixed drinks.... that last part was a bit of humor...

5) Phospahtes are coming in with your water or your food. If you feed frozen cubes of food - I would rinse the cubes ina net until it dissolves and all you are feeding is the meat - not the frozen water and junk. Don't just throw the cubes in the tank. A refugium will help to reduce nitrates and phosphates - bith are fertilizer for algae.

6) Increase flow in the tank especially to the area collecting the cyano.

7) I don;t know about removing the sand bed - sounds drastic. As you make any of these changes proceed slowly and be patient. As you saw the bad stuff happens fast the good stuff takes time. Anything that dies get it out of teh tank fast.

8) I have not had much luck with phosphate removing filter media. Just be careful on what you add to the tank. High quality RO/DI water. Get a good (Saifert) test kit and check your water source.

9) How old are your lamps ? As bulbs age the color spectrum shifts and you may not have 10K lamps anymore. You'll know the PC bulbs are old if they appear dark or even black at the ends of the bulbs.

I moved a 75 gallon tank with dying corals and 5 fish. had a similar outbreak of cyano (somewhat minor) but it eventually burned itself out. Make sure you are using a good water source.

Good Luck and keep at it - cyano is a tough battle but you can win. Sorry for the long ramblings....

FishinInTheDark
06-21-2005, 04:39 PM
Great post WF!

Doctor_Reef
06-21-2005, 05:46 PM
I have to agree, very good stuff WF!!!! :thumbsup: