WEEKLY DISCUSSION : Cutting/Drilling, and Polishing Acrylic

[jman785]

Share your experience with drilling/cutting acrylic!

What kind of Saws/Drill, do you use?

What kind of bits/saws are you using?


Polishing/Scratch Removal

As far as polishing goes,what kind of buffing wheels did you use?

How did it work for you?

What do you use, to remove the polishes from the tank, to prevent anything from leeching back into the tank?

[jman785]

:bump:

[Condiman]

Well my experiences with working with acrylic worked out quite well. I cut most of mine with a Fine tooth blade on my jig saw. It seems to cut quite easily.

[Frick-n-Frags]

very timely as I might have to build some custom sumpery here real soon.

Can you cut acrylic on a tablesaw? I'm just thinking that a tablesaw with a rail will make nice straight cuts. I could also just go to house of plastics in Cleveland and spec out what size pieces but I would guess that is a service that one gets charged for :)

Any tricks to the assembly/solvent application part of things? Like how is the best way to butt 2 pieces together.

[jman785]

Frick-n-Frags,

Acrylic can be cut on a table-saw, although you should be careful not to scratch it with sawdust left on the table or put a mat down as long as you don't get it caught in your blade ;-)

You want to use say Weldon 4 to actually run the seams...

I use sewing pins when gluing joints....you should have a good square joint, as well as be on a level surface, and place a sewing pin the seam, every 6 inches...apply Weldon or Solvent, and let it soften the acrylic...once its start softening...pull the pins. (usually about 10-25 secs. for Weldon
4)

I'd take a fine grit sand paper and 'knock' the edges of the acrylic down, after I've glue it...such as a 200 grit and then go over it with a 400 grit wet/dry sand paper...I'm refering to the top edges and sides, etc. Acrylic is very sharp and can slice you up quite nice. ;)

A top lip would be beneficial, pending the size of your sump as well, to keep the tank from bowing. Normally a 1"-2" lip will suffice.

[jman785]

By the way, I'd probably go with Cast acrylic by the way...if your planning on a good size sump. Stay away from Extruded acrylic.

The glueing order should be the sides to the front and then glue the back. ;)

[Frick-n-Frags]

thank you :) That doesn't sound too scary at all.

[Khann]

one thing when cutting Acrylic the blade needs to be a high tooth count like 80 teeth you have less chance of cracking or splintering and a good heat gun makes beautifull bends for seamless corners

[jman785]

one thing when cutting Acrylic the blade needs to be a high tooth count like 80 teeth you have less chance of cracking or splintering and a good heat gun makes beautifull bends for seamless corners


This is also true. But you must watch how hot the blade gets, because the acrylic can actually warp...I know anyone who has drilled overflows, holes into acrylic knows that using a 'hole saw' causes the acrylic to heat up fast.

[nbaker]

Frick-n-Frags,

Acrylic can be cut on a table-saw, although you should be careful not to scratch it with sawdust left on the table or put a mat down as long as you don't get it caught in your blade ;-)

If you really plan on kicking out much work on a table saw, I'd fashion a cross cut sled. You no longer have to worry about the saw dust because the work is all slidding over the blade on a board with rails to slide in the table saw it's self. Just google a search for "table saw sled", to get an idea. Mind you much of those are more than you will need. Just something with a foward fence to square up on or clamp to, and of course rails to slide on the slots. my $.02

[jman785]

Some expensive saws, such as Grizzly table saws come with sleds. Mine also has an extension on it, with about five feet of rollers, to keep rolling your cutting off the saw.