pumps for refugium/sump

[wiegs531]

I am building a refugium/sump and I need to know what powerheads I need to make this project a success. It will be for a 90 gallon FO.

[Condiman]

Is your tank currently running because if it not you could have the back drilled for a bulkhead then run down into a simple rubbermaid storage container that has been partitioned off. For lighting for your fuge you could go with simple Floresent Lights or Power Compacts for lighting.

[wiegs531]

yeah, the system has been up for a little while. So, no drillin for me. And I got some good lights and stuff and a spare 29 laying around that I converted. Thanks

[Macbeth417]

How are things going with this project?

For what do you need the powerheads? Are feeding a fuge and then having it work on gravity-feed return? If you are adding a sump and don't want to drill at all then go with a U-tube overflow (CPR, LIFEREEF, DIY) and a submersible return pump.

Is this a question of flow rates and which size pump to use? Personally I like my flow to be within tank (Pheads, Closed Loops) and not through the sump as I don't feel that moving the water more than about one and half times the speed of the skimmer pump is doing you any good. This also gives that macro algae (chaetomorpha preferably) a nice turbid, medium flow area in which to grow.

Hit me back if I am off base here and I will try to get to your question in my free time this weekend.... Now Im off to look into attatching one of these to my tank : )
http://www.oceansmotions.com/wm4.jpg

-Erik

[wiegs531]

Ok....what the heck is that?
Anywho....I figure, gravity in and pump out, being that the refugium will be underneith the tank. That is what I am confused about. How much water will be gravitationally pulled in to determine the size pump to return to the tank? Does that make sense? Uhhhhhhh, sounds ok to me, but that's because I am saying it. Let me know. Sanks.

[Macbeth417]

You are thinking about this backward, the pump will determine the flow not the feed to the sump. The main thing is hammering out how the water is getting to the sump. Then I can answer your question.

-Erik

[wiegs531]

alright, will I need two pumps...one to pump in and one to pump out?

[Macbeth417]

Two pumps is VERY bad idea. Not only does it cost more to run, but you also risk overflowing either the tank or the sump if one fails or begins to lag in its duties. I would suggest a CPR or Life Reef style overflow and a submersible pump that has a return GPH rating comparable to the rating on the overflow.

Please read this page. I think it will clear up this sump flow issue:
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

Here are some reasonably priced submersible pumps you could choose from:
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_powerheads_pumps_danner_mag_drive_supreme .asp?CartId=
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_powerheads_pumps_dolphin_pond_tank_master .asp?CartId=
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_pumps_pentair_aquatics_rainbow_lifegard_q uiet_one.asp?CartId=

Here are some U-tube overflows:
http://www.marinedepot.com/IMD/150/CR1515.jpg
http://www.lifereef.com/lg_pre.gif

I do not endorse any of these site or companies, I simply used thier sites as they are what I had on hand and work as examples. In fact I would suggest you go through one of our sponsors, as they will often provide discounts to forum members.

-Erik :-D

[wiegs531]

Coo....sorry I seem like a monkeyspank, but I am nervous of this thing overflowing or the return running dry.

Thanks for everything. I will give you a heads-up in like a week on how it is doing.

[Macbeth417]

wiegs531:

No worries whatsoever, we are here to help. :-D

As far as overflowing the sump or running the pump dry, perhaps you will gain a little knowledge from this previous Coralforum thread in which I explained the basics of Overflow/Sump systems to another members.

From the thread: Oveflows?!?!, Jan 02, 2004



...

Q: How do you get it to stop if your electricity goes out?
A:*Deep Breath* :shock:

Some people rely on an inline check valve in thier return line, however, there are a great deal of us, including my self, that do not trust these devices as they can easily accumulate mineral perposits and not seal properly and "hammer" (repeatedly open and shut creating an annoying clattering noise).
You can purchase electronic valves to shut when the power is cut, but I recommend using some form of siphon break. Drilling a hole in the return line close to the water line works well. You can also use a spray bar or manifold that feeds from or close to the top of the water level... /

The key here is to calculate how many inches of your tank you expect, in the worst case, to flow into your sump. Find how many inches it takes your siphon break to stop flow to your sump and calculate ((LXWXH)/231) to yield the total excess gallons for which your sump must accommodate..../

Q: "...how does it automatically restart when the lights come back on?"
A: Assuming your pump doesn't seize, your pump should return water to the display through the return lines until the height of the water reaching the above that of the teeth on the overflow. From there the water will rise inside the overflow until it reaches the height of the standpipe and will flow into the sump restarting the process.

Q: "... does the pump continue pumping up and once again, lead to a wet floor???"

The only case this would happen in is if you are using a siphon based U tube overflow that for some reason did NOT restart. If you are concerned about this you can use an optical censor connected to your main pump to monitor the height of the water lever in the main tank or the return reservoir in the sump, and have it shut off the return pump if it is too heigh or to low respectively (I would suggest using it in the display) You can also connect a device, such as a powerhead, to power your syphon-overflow ventri valve to remove air from the the U-tube..../



-Erik

[Zack]

Post subject: Two-pumps (Adj): Derange, Foolish. See also, Wacky. j/k ;þ


ohh erik LOL :D

[wiegs531]

you're the coooolest. Sanks, bub.